The Textile Waste Crisis in Australia

Australia faces a mounting challenge with textile waste, where hundreds of thousands of tonnes of discarded clothing and fabrics end up in landfills each year. In 2023 alone, 222,000 tonnes of clothing were sent to landfill, marking a slight decrease from previous years but still highlighting a persistent problem. The average Australian consumes about 27 kilograms of new clothing annually while discarding 23 kilograms, contributing to an estimated 860 kilotonnes of textiles, leather, and rubber waste generated between 2020 and 2021. Only a mere 7 percent of these materials are recycled, with the majority incinerated or landfilled, exacerbating environmental pressures like methane emissions and resource depletion.

This crisis is driven by fast fashion trends, synthetic fiber dominance, and limited recycling infrastructure. Textiles account for roughly 5 percent of Australia's total municipal solid waste, posing risks to soil and water quality when not managed properly. Government reports emphasize the need for circular economy strategies to divert waste from landfills and reduce the 600,000 tons projected annually by recent estimates.

UNSW's Innovative Solution from the SMaRT Centre

The University of New South Wales (UNSW) Sydney's SMaRT Centre—short for the ARC Centre of Excellence for Transformational Manufacturing of Sustainable Materials—has pioneered a game-changing approach. Researchers led by Scientia Professor Veena Sahajwalla have developed a process to upcycle end-of-life mixed textiles into high-performance activated carbon (AC), a versatile material used in purification technologies.

This breakthrough, detailed in the recent publication "Novel upcycling of mixed textile waste into valuable activated carbon: A circular economy solution" in Resources, Conservation and Recycling (Volume 223, 2025), transforms hard-to-recycle waste like blended cotton, polyester, and nylon into tunable AC with surface areas ranging from 500 to 2300 square meters per gram. The innovation addresses both waste management and resource recovery, positioning UNSW at the forefront of sustainable materials research in Australian higher education.

How the Upcycling Process Works Step-by-Step

The process leverages low-cost thermal manufacturing, bypassing the need for sorting complex textile blends. Here's a breakdown:

1. Collection and Preparation: Gather end-of-life textiles from households, landfills, or industry without separation, as the method handles mixed compositions.
2. Carbonization: Heat the textiles in an oxygen-limited environment (pyrolysis) at temperatures around 500-800°C to form char, removing volatiles.
3. Activation: Expose the char to activating agents like steam or potassium hydroxide at high temperatures (800-1000°C), creating micropores and expanding surface area.
4. Tuning and Purification: Adjust activation parameters for desired porosity; wash and dry to produce ready-to-use AC powder or granules.
5. Application Testing: Integrate into filters for lab validation on contaminants like methylene blue or taste-and-odor compounds.

This scalable method supports small-scale facilities, ideal for decentralized recycling in Australia.

Impressive Performance in Water Purification

The resulting activated carbon excels in water treatment. Tests showed superior adsorption of organic pollutants, with gas chromatography-mass spectrometry confirming removal of taste and odor compounds, and UV-vis spectrophotometry verifying methylene blue uptake. Compared to commercial AC, it offers comparable or better efficiency at a fraction of the environmental cost—36 percent lower embodied carbon and over 99 percent reduced energy demand.

In practical terms, this AC can purify drinking water in remote Australian communities or treat industrial wastewater, addressing contaminants like dyes and volatile organics. Its tunable pores target specific pollutants, making it versatile for municipal and point-of-use filters.

Photo by Kevin Limbri on Unsplash

Broader Environmental and Economic Impacts

By diverting textiles from landfills, this innovation cuts greenhouse gas emissions and conserves virgin resources like coal used in traditional AC production. Economically, it creates value from waste: AC sells for high prices in purification markets. For Australia, it aligns with national circular economy goals, potentially reducing the $1 billion annual textile waste cost.

• Reduces landfill reliance, mitigating leachate pollution.
• Supports Indigenous communities with local clean water solutions.
• Boosts manufacturing jobs in green tech.

Stakeholders including the Textile Recycling Association praise its feasibility for industry adoption.Learn more from UNSW SMaRT

Role of Key Researchers and UNSW's Legacy

Professor Veena Sahajwalla, a global leader in green manufacturing, directs the SMaRT Centre, which has transformed waste into batteries, bricks, and more. Co-authors Dr. Rumana Hossain, Dr. Heriyanto Heriyanto, and Anirban Ghose contributed expertise in materials science. UNSW's focus on sustainability attracts top talent, with opportunities in research jobs for environmental engineers.

This builds on prior UNSW work, like turning textiles into building panels, showcasing the university's commitment to higher education-driven innovation.

Challenges and Pathways to Commercialization

While promising, scaling requires investment in activation kilns and policy support like extended producer responsibility laws. Contamination in waste streams poses hurdles, but the mixed-feed capability mitigates this. Pilot plants could launch in NSW, partnering with recyclers.

Experts note regulatory approvals for water use are straightforward given AC's established safety.

Global Context and Australian Leadership

Australia lags in textile recycling compared to Europe but leads with innovations like this. Similar projects, such as chemical recycling pilots, complement UNSW's thermal approach. Internationally, demand for sustainable AC grows with water scarcity affecting 2.4 billion people.

Read the full paper abstract for technical details.

Photo by Huy Phan on Unsplash

Future Outlook: A Circular Future for Textiles

Looking ahead, UNSW envisions micro-factories nationwide, integrating AI for optimization. This could cut Australia's textile footprint by 20 percent by 2030, inspiring policy and jobs. For aspiring researchers, explore career advice and Australian university opportunities.

Career Opportunities in Sustainable Materials Research

This innovation opens doors in higher education and industry. Positions at UNSW and partners seek PhDs in materials engineering. Check higher ed jobs, university jobs, or rate professors like those at SMaRT. Postdocs can thrive via targeted advice.