Revaluing Native British Wool: Design-Led, Place-Based Research into Fibre, Landscape and Circular Material Futures

About the Project

This PhD explores Native British Wool (NBW) as a place-based material system. It examines how fibre performance, landscape, design practice and cultural value are entangled within UK rural, social and ecological contexts. Wool is treated as a product of place, shaped by geography, climate, farming practices, breed histories and local knowledge.

Contemporary wool valuation often prioritises fibre fineness (micron count). The metric abstracts the wool from its place of origin and can systematically devalue many native breeds. This project asks how design-led research can surface alternative ways of knowing, evaluating and communicating NBW. Its aim is to enable more equitable and locally grounded fibre futures.

The successful applicant will shaped the project and develop it through their own disciplinary, methodological or creative interests.

Indicative research questions

• How do place-based farming, processing and cultural histories influence the perceived and measured performance of NBW fibres?
• What alternative evaluation and communication methods could revalue NBW beyond micron-led hierarchies, and for which end uses?
• How can design-led methods support circular, regenerative, locally grounded wool futures while respecting rural knowledge and labour?

Practice directions may include:

• fibre and textile performance explorations
• place-based material narratives
• relationships between biodiversity, breed and landscape
• craft/heritage knowledge
• design methods that bridge empirical testing, storytelling and systems change.

Project partner

The studentship is developed in collaboration with The Wool Library (WL), an industry-led knowledge platform founded by Dr Zoe Fletcher focusing on breed-specific fibre characteristics, regional practices and sustainable processing pathways. Dr Fletcher will act as an industry mentor/advisor, supporting sector insight, access to networks (farmers/mills where appropriate) and translation into public- and industry-facing outcomes (for example talks, workshops, exhibitions, toolkits or digital resources).

Visit The Wool Library’s website for more information.

Supervisors and research at UAL

Professor Veronika Kapsali
Specialisms:

• materials technology and design
• bio-inspired textiles
• practice-led Design+STEM innovation
• textile systems research.

Dr Laetitia Forst
Specialisms:

• circular textile design
• sustainability frameworks
• design for disassembly and material recovery
• industry-facing circularity research.

Dr Zoe Fletcher (Industry advisor, The Wool Library)
Specialisms:

• breed-specific wool knowledge
• knit experimentation with natural fibres
• traceable fibre chains and place-based wool practice.

Researchers will be supported by the research environment at London College of Fashion and the Active Materials Lab: a practice-led research intersecting textile systems and Design+STEM approaches.

How to apply

See the application guidance and submit your application on our website.